Monday 21 Nov: We explore three major cultural sites

For the next three days, the epicenter of our activity shifts from Dundee to Edinburgh, the ancient capital of Scotland, and potentially Europe’s newest seat of sovereignty — if the IndyRef 2 folks get their way, that is. The capital seems abuzz with that possibility, as polls are showing that support for independence has now flipped since IndyRef 1 in 2014. There are anxious signs in the city, as the U.K. awaits a ruling due from their Supreme Court this week regarding the right of the Scottish Parliament to hold a referendum on this topic at all. We’ll know whether their Supreme Court is as detached from rationality as ours is before we depart later in the week.

The Edinburgh Holiday Inn City Centre is quite a contrast to the luxury of the Apex in Dundee. I don’t mean to say it’s a bad hotel per se — I don’t really care much about amenities because I certainly don’t intend to spend my time in Edinburgh lounging about — but it’s not a particularly memorable accommodation, and at least for the students I do think such things matter.

Breaking fast

The one thing I personally miss about the Apex is the breakfast. There is a serviceable, filling breakfast to be had here, but little in the way of variety. It’s a standard buffet service with some nods to the traditional English breakfast — baked beans, thick slabs of bacon. But after the Apex, this is simply not as civilized a start to the day. People dart in and out like a school of herring, squirming around each other in the buffet queue, hastily scarfing down food in a windowless second-floor dining dining room that sparks memories of a school cafeteria more than anything. The patrons are fueling, really, more-so than dining.

I plate up with eggs, sausage, bacon, baked beans, a slice of toast with jam, and coffee Americano. I miss the stewed tomato and sautéed mushroom that would make this echo of an English breakfast complete. Still, it’s enjoyable. And I want to bulk up, because our upcoming activities may not accommodate a sit-down lunch. Today’s itinerary was originally meant to be our trip’s capstone experience, but available opening times and other factors instead compelled us to make today’s sites our introduction to Edinburgh. Of course, because it the most beautiful and walkable city in the world, it doesn’t matter in what order one experiences all it has to offer, including the dramatic weather. Rain appears to be a thing of our past today, though the skies will undoubtedly provide a rapidly changing show as they are wont to do in Scotland.

Trouble back home

We have our standard orientation meeting after breakfast in the lobby. Behind me is a screen with a BBC news report about a shooting at an LGBTQ nightclub in Colorado Springs. Almost every time I am abroad, the United States somehow manages to come off as an embarrassingly obese clown with bad makeup, speaking in tongues and tripping over its outsized feet while reaching for the AR-15 slung over its ill-fitting red-and-blue polka-dotted shirt. I briefly fantasize about deliberately missing the flight and seeking political asylum on Thursday. But then I remember that the current political situation in the U.K. is mind-bogglingly worse than in the U.S., if one can grasp such a thing as even possible.

Redirecting our collective attention from the bad news back home, I describe our immersion experience along the reknowned Royal Mile, first at Edinburgh Castle, then on to Saint Giles’ Cathedral, and wrapping up at the Palace of Holyroodhouse. There’s of course dozens of things to see along this historic way — the old Tolbooth Kirk now known as the Hub, the striking Scottish Parliament — but any of those will have for our final day, if someone wishes to see them on their own.

Walking to the Castle

I have group entry tickets for all of our destinations, and it will be a challenge to keep the group on time for our entries. We walk together from the hotel up Leith Street, which is under some construction for trolly improvements, to Princes Street. I decide to walk west so I can point out Waverley Station, the Scott Monument, the Scottish National Gallery, and the Princes Street Gardens (a stunningly beautiful urban park which until the nineteenth century was a sewage-infested body of water, the infamous and thankfully drained-away Nor Loch).

I’m also wanting to point out the rides and Christmas Market that happen here, but I’m saddened to see it’s not quite ready this time around. When I was here in 2016 at this very same time of year, it was in full swing as a boisterous and enjoyable holiday carnival. I suppose Covid has taken its toll on this event as it has on so many others, and we’re perhaps seeing a toned-down version opening up a bit later than usual. The poor economy may not be helping either.

Entering the Castle

We turn south at the Mound and see the city Christmas tree, then walk up a steep, surprisingly icy walk up Ramsay Lane to Castlehill, the westernmost portion of the Royal Mile. In the Esplanade, I see that Covid has changed the ticketing and entry system here, and for a group entry there’s a bit of a learning curve to negotiate. At a temporary shack with some queuing ropes I’m directed to the “normal” ticket office inside and to the right of the Castle Gatehouse to process our tickets. After doing so I rejoin the group at the queue to distribute them, and we enter.

The travel agent has only given us a couple of hours to explore the Castle. It is a sprawling complex with layer upon layer of history, and this is hardly enough time to explore even one piece of the puzzle. I suggest for anyone visiting the first time to see the Royal Palace, the Honours of Scotland, Mons Meg, and Saint Margaret’s Chapel as the high points one can do in two hours. But there is so much to see here, as many times as I’ve visited I still haven’t seen everything it has to offer.

After an obligatory buzz past the Honours, I head back down the hill to the National War Museum, one of the last pieces of the Castle I have not yet seen on prior trips. I don’t regret the choice, but in hindsight I wish I had done some digging in the Peter Cromar descendancy data for any names that might be found at the Scottish National War Memorial, which I had only seen prior to my genealogical research. I make a mental note for next time.

Heading to the Cathedral

Knowing that lunch will be a challenge, I grab a utilitarian snack of a bagel with Scottish salmon at the Redcoat Cafe in the Castle, which turns out to be a nice surprise. In a world where service is often outsourced to predictably boring fast food chains or third-party vendors, this little venue is a throwback to a time when museums operated their own unique dining facilities. I hope they keep it that way! After eating, in our group chat I warn folks to meet at around 12:15 back at the Castle Gatehouse for the brief walk down to Saint Giles’. The cats are willingly herding well today, and as a group we arrive at the west entrance promptly at 12:30.

Thistle Chapel

Again, entry comes with a bit of a learning curve attached, but we get inside with no issues. The space is, of course, beyond-words majestic. I remind folks not to miss the Thistle Chapel, a gorgeous architectural gem. We’re lucky we arrive when we do, as the Chapel closes just about a half hour after we enter. I also remind our group the main cathedral is where Queen Elizabeth lay in state during the mourning period following her recent death.

I stay inside longer than most of our group. We’re not due to arrive at Holyrood until 3, so the time allotted at Saint Giles’ is a bit longer than seems necessary for most of them. I just want to soak in the atmosphere of the place. I’m deeply embarrassed to admit, as many times as I’ve been to Edinburgh, this is the first time I’ve been inside the church, so I feel like I’m making up for lost time. I tell our group, via the chat, if they want to walk down the Royal Mile a bit and find a late lunch, that wouldn’t be a bad idea — just remember to meet at the entry of Holyrood at our assigned time.

The Palace

The Palace at Holyroodhouse is the Queen’s King’s home when she he is in Edinburgh. But to call it a “home” is like calling Mount Everest a plot of real estate found at a somewhat higher altitude than sea level. Anticipating room after opulent room where photography is prohibited, I indulge in one of those self-guided audio tours I ordinarily loathe beyond the telling — and I’m glad I do, as there’s little context to latch onto without it. This is another place I’m embarrassed to say I haven’t experienced in prior trips to this city, but I am glad I’m not simply repeating past journeys. With all of the ignoble shenanigans perpetrated by the nobles that have occupied this residence, I find Holyroodhouse to be pretty creepy, actually.

I’m surprised there is enough light toward the end of our tour to get outside to see the amazing ruins of the Abbey as well as the garden grounds. From here you can see the summit of Arthur’s Seat, which I fondly remember climbing in the snow with Ashaundei Smith and Ryan Brooks in 2018. The ruins are sadly closed off at the moment but still majestic in the fading light.

The closed ruins of the Abbey — not much photography is allowed in the Palace and it’s getting dark…

Another family reunion

As night descends our group disperses to dinner and an evening’s entertainment on own. For me, I’ve arranged a special meeting with another family member in Scotland. This time, however, it’s not a cousin of mine, but my wife’s cousin Matt. Matt is a young man who attends Duke University studying linguistics, and he’s in Edinburgh on a study abroad program spending a semester at the University of Edinburgh. I text with him to find a rendezvous, and he suggests Nando’s at the OMNI Center, across the street from my hotel.

Matt is a great kid, very bright and very talkative, and we exchange stories about travel and study abroad. I’m fascinated by his discipline and his course of study, and how this ties together with his own interest in his heritage. He, in turn, is very interested in our activities here. We enjoy a spicy Afro-Caribbean fusion meal, the second one I’ve had in Scotland if you include our group meal at Gidi Grill. Is this a trend?

My dinner with Matt at Nando’s

Matt mentions his time in Edinburgh is almost done, and he’ll be returning home to New Jersey after the term concludes in mid-December. We agree to get our families together when we’re all back in the States. His mom, Maria’s cousin, lives in northern New Jersey, not far at all from Philadelphia. I know Matt is busy with end-of-term studies so I don’t want to overstay my welcome. We part company with the evening still fairly early.

Down time

I think about what I’d like to do on my own for a couple of hours — I haven’t really been solo on this trip much! I decide I’m exhausted actually, so I head back to the hotel for an early evening in. I’ve probably walked about 10 miles today, and I know tomorrow will likely be an even more extreme walking day. I take a long shower, do some sink laundry, and I’m fast asleep long before 10. Sorry, folks: I’m boring tonight, but I have big plans for live music tomorrow!

Next: To the Highlands with Hairy Coo Tours, and a visit to Sandy Bell’s.